The Best Christmas markets in Berlin

It's that time of year again.

The time of year that the heady scent of Glühwein and Bratwurst fills the air and you cannot help but wonder how it can be Christmas again already.

Every year seems to go faster than the last, the year's 'to do lists' left incomplete yet again, we'll do better next year.

So while you're here in Berlin, take a break from the trials and tribulations of the festive season to enjoy all the good things that come along with this time of year.

Roasted chestnuts. The ubiquitous Raclette with its melted ooziness over toasted bread or potatoes with pickled onions and gherkins. And the sometimes too sweet, but always warming Glühwein- mulled wine with oranges and cloves and of course the customary shot or schuss of rum. Just to make sure you don't freeze from the cold, naturally.

There is somewhere between 60 and 80 Christmas markets in Berlin and it could be said that once you've seen one, you've seen them all.

They do tend to have the same offerings of food and general bits and pieces, however some of the markets here in Berlin just cannot be missed and here I have put together a list of my favourite ones.

Merry Christmas!! Frohe Weihnachten!!

1. WeihnachtsZauber Gendarmenmarkt- situated at one of, if not the, most beautiful squares in Berlin. This market is sure to put even Ebenezer in the Christmas Spirit. One of few that you have to pay to go in (just 1 euro), it is worth every penny. Carols fill the air, great food and drink, overlooked by stunning cathedrals and the concert house. Duration: 21.11.16-31.12.16

2. Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt in der Kulturbrauerei- within an old brewery, this Scandinavian themed market is a must! Try the Swedish Glögg with a shot of rum and a sprinkle of sultanas and almonds. Duration: 21.11.16-22.12.16

3. Weihnachtsmarkt in der Sophienstrasse- something for the weekend, this market is only on Saturday and Sunday. I love its simplicity as it just runs the length of the street. Duration: Each Advent weekend

4. Weihnachtsmarkt Charlottenburg Schloss- another one in a beautiful location with the backdrop of Charlottenburg Palace. Currently covered in scaffolding, it still makes for a gorgeous Christmassy Setting. Duration: 21.11.16- 26.12.16

5. Spandauer Weihnachtsmarkt in der Altstadt- this one is a little further out but very much worth the trip. One of the oldest Christmas markets in Berlin in the old town of Spandau. Duration: Tue, 13.12.2016 till Tue, 27.12.2016                 

6. Rixdorfer Weihnachtsmarkt in Neukölln- THIS WEEKEND ONLY!

One to miss- Weihnachtmarkt am Alexanderplatz. I hate to be a snob but this one is just a bit much in my opinion. Heaving with people, it doesn't have the charm of the other markets.  

Sketches of Berlin

Doodling is one of my favourite pastimes and so when I find myself with a little extra time, I try to create some characters that could well live here in Berlin.

Often, as with their creator, they are found with food on the mind.

Food in Berlin is wondrous.

Diverse and affordable, eating well in Berlin is pure joy.

That is the main reason I started giving food tours here, so I could share this wealth with others that may be new to the city.

A food tour tells you so much about a city, where it has come from- where it is going and that is exactly the case for Berlin.

In this blog, I introduce you to some of the people in Berlin on a quest for good food that may or may not be a figment of my imagination.

Enjoy!

gimme beer

to booze, or not to booze, that is the question…

choices…

maybachufer love

The Best Christmas markets in Berlin

It's that time of year again.

The time of year that the heady scent of Glühwein and Bratwurst fills the air and you cannot help but wonder how it can be Christmas again already.

Every year seems to go faster than the last, the year's 'to do lists' left incomplete yet again, we'll do better next year.

So while you're here in Berlin, take a break from the trials and tribulations of the festive season to enjoy all the good things that come along with this time of year.

Roasted chestnuts. The ubiquitous Raclette with its melted ooziness over toasted bread or potatoes with pickled onions and gherkins. And the sometimes too sweet, but always warming Glühwein- mulled wine with oranges and cloves and of course the customary shot or schuss of rum. Just to make sure you don't freeze from the cold, naturally.

There is somewhere between 60 and 80 Christmas markets in Berlin and it could be said that once you've seen one, you've seen them all.

They do tend to have the same offerings of food and general bits and pieces, however some of the markets here in Berlin just cannot be missed and here I have put together a list of my favourite ones.

Merry Christmas!! Frohe Weihnachten!!

1. WeihnachtsZauber Gendarmenmarkt- situated at one of, if not the, most beautiful squares in Berlin. This market is sure to put even Ebenezer in the Christmas Spirit. One of few that you have to pay to go in (just 1 euro), it is worth every penny. Carols fill the air, great food and drink, overlooked by stunning cathedrals and the concert house. Duration: 21.11.16-31.12.16

2. Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt in der Kulturbrauerei- within an old brewery, this Scandinavian themed market is a must! Try the Swedish Glögg with a shot of rum and a sprinkle of sultanas and almonds. Duration: 21.11.16-22.12.16

3. Weihnachtsmarkt in der Sophienstrasse- something for the weekend, this market is only on Saturday and Sunday. I love its simplicity as it just runs the length of the street. Duration: Each Advent weekend

4. Weihnachtsmarkt Charlottenburg Schloss- another one in a beautiful location with the backdrop of Charlottenburg Palace. Currently covered in scaffolding, it still makes for a gorgeous Christmassy Setting. Duration: 21.11.16- 26.12.16

5. Spandauer Weihnachtsmarkt in der Altstadt- this one is a little further out but very much worth the trip. One of the oldest Christmas markets in Berlin in the old town of Spandau. Duration: Tue, 13.12.2016 till Tue, 27.12.2016                 

6. Rixdorfer Weihnachtsmarkt in Neukölln- THIS WEEKEND ONLY!

One to miss- Weihnachtmarkt am Alexanderplatz. I hate to be a snob but this one is just a bit much in my opinion. Heaving with people, it doesn't have the charm of the other markets.  

Berlin restaurant inspiration- Sabich

'Cooking is like love. It should be entered into with abandon or not at all.' Harriet Van Horne

One of my greatest joys in life is to cook here in my little Berlin kitchen.

Exploring the vibrant neighbourhood of which I live and sourcing ingredients- fresh turmeric root from the Vietnamese Supermarket just down the road or pomegranate molasses from the Turkish market on the corner from my house, or fantastic organic produce from the Biomarkt across from me.

A cuisine that has become more and more present here in Berlin is that of Israeli origin. As someone that follows a largely vegan diet, Israeli food is a dream.

In my mind, tahini is nectar of the gods and an ingredient found in abundance within the Israeli kitchen.

Sabich is something that was introduced to me by some of the amazing Israeli restaurants we have here in Berlin such as Kanaan and Sababa. It is essentially a sandwich with unctious roasted aubergine, luscious tahini sauce, sliced boiled egg teamed with a crunchy salad.

The ingredient which makes this dish altogether magical is the 'amba' sauce, you will not always find it included, but in my opinion, is what makes Sabich so special.

'Amba' is a fragrant mango sauce made with cumin and turmeric and its flavour reminds you that it is also used in Indian cuisine with the name 'amba' derived from the Sanskrit for mango. It is also present in Iraqi cuisine and with Israel being a melting pot of many cultures including Iraqi, this is likely how it came to be part of their cuisine today.

With this blog I shall share with you my interpretation of this wondrous dish, taking aspects of all those I have sampled here in Berlin and putting them together.

Enjoy!

Serves 2

Shopping list:

2 eggs (omit for a vegan version of Sabich)

bunch of fresh parsley

1 yellow pepper

2 tomatoes

1 cucumber

2 spring onions

vinegar

olive oil

pitta bread

tahini

1 fresh mango

300g dried mango

cumin (1 tablespoon- whole seeds or ground)

turmeric (1 tablespoon of ground)

fenugreek (1 teaspoon of ground)

2 cloves garlic

rice syrup 

2 aubergines

pickles (gherkins, turnips etc) to serve

Method

First get your aubergines on the go by slicing them either into 1cm thick rounds or simply each aubergine slice in half length ways, scoring the flesh and then (either way) placing them on a roasting tray and rub with olive oil. Roast for roughly 25 minutes or until soft and golden in the oven at 200 degrees Celsius.

While this is happening, its time to make the amba sauce.

Prepare your fresh mango by slicing in half around the stone and removing the flesh with a spoon and roughly chop.

In a small saucepan add 1.5 cups of water, 1/2 cup of white wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons of rice syrup and the juice of 1 lemon and put over a high heat.

Add the fresh and dried mango, bring to a boil. Simmer for 20 minutes or until the mango is softened.

Pop your eggs onto boil according to how you like them!

Roughly chop the garlic and then fry in a small pan until soft, adding the cumin seeds, turmeric and ground fenugreek. Add to the mango.

Take it off the heat and carefully pour into a blender, adding salt and pepper, whizz until smooth.

For the salad- roughly chop the tomato, onion and pepper to bite-size pieces. Peel the cucumber and de-seed, roughly chop as the other ingredients and add everything to a bowl. Roughly chop the parsley and throw into the salad. To dress- add a glug of olive oil, vinegar, lemon, salt and pepper.

Tahini sauce- into a small bowl, pour in a cup of tahini. Add a little water and with a fork mix into the tahini until it looks like something has gone very wrong and its curdled. Keep stirring in a little water at a time until it is creamy, smooth and lighter in colour. It should be of a pourable consistency. Add a good squeeze of lemon and salt.

Toast or heat your pittas in the oven. Once the aubergines are nicely roasted, take from the oven and assemble your Sabich. You could simply just stuff the pitta with all the ingredients and munch away, but I like to make it pretty by placing the whole aubergine half on top of the warm pitta, drizzle with the sauces, scatter over the sliced boiled egg and a little salad on the side, pickles, eating it with a knife and fork. Perhaps this is sabich sacrilege but it makes me happy.

בְּתֵיאָבוֹן! (enjoy your meal!)

Vegan version without the egg- just as yummy in my opinion!

Ode to Autumn

And so it is this way every year.

One day you´re waking up basking in the late summer rays, and the next in comes the gusts of Autumns' cold breath- our annual reminder that Winter is just around the corner.

Berlin has grown cold yet again and thoze lazy, hazy days of Summer are long forgotten.

Alas! It´s not time to lament this period of eternal cloud (its started already, nooo), but rather to celebrate all that we have in store.

Pumpkins. Cinnamon Schnecke. Piping hot soups with crusty brötchen. Glühwein and iced star-shape cookies. The Christmas markets and their ubiquitous Raclettes.

The shorter days are not to be afraid of, but embraced. It's time to make the most of the hibernation to read our favourite books, finally learn how to crochet and of course to enjoy our most comforting foods.

If we can however, find it in us to crawl out of our cozy havens and venture into the dark, damp depths of the City, (and we do, I remind myself many times a day), then here is a list of some of my favourite spots to have a munch or a slurp.

They´ll be sure to warm your soul and give you that little spring in your step we need during these colder months.

Hirsch- the cosiest of cosy. Traditional South-German fare. A schnitzel and a schnapps will be sure to warm your cockles.

Michelberger hotel- exquisite yet unpretentious. Seasonal, local cuisine. A rustic countryhouse that lost its way and became a restaurant in Berlin. (Fantastic vegan options available).

Perlin- wine and tapas bar where you pay what you think it was worth. You can´t get more welcoming than that!

Victoria bar- step back in time to the 60s and enjoy joyful service and equally as pleasing cocktails.

Fraulein Kimchi- spicy, fermented cabbage will always warm your bones and add that to an awesome ramen burger with the BEST fries ever and you´ll be golden. (Fantastic vegan options available).

Beusters- beautiful Beusters and their beautiful cocktails. The Sloe-gin fizz is nectar of the gods.

Berlin's best Currywurst

The ubiquitous Currywurst with its sweet ketchup, dusting of curry powder and classic German sausage, is synonymous with Berlin and food. Perhaps not a 'refined' delicacy, but this little wurst stands proud within the Berlin food scene and definitely fulfills its purpose as good street-food.

A product of a dark and desperate time and a devastated city, where the resources were low but perseverance high, when a lady named Herta Heuwer obtained ketchup and curry powder from some neighbourly British troops in West Berlin, (they received alcohol in return, I say no more!), and combined it with what she had to hand, the traditional German sausage.

The interesting concoction was immediately successful and remains very much a firm favourite of Berliners today.

There are thousands of Currywurst vendors to choose from today in Berlin, and of course the quality can vary considerably, so I am going to share with you some of my favourite places to enjoy this tasty little plate of food fusion.

Konnopke's Imbiß

This is widely regarded as one of the best Currywurst in Berlin and they definitely win on the historical front. A sausage-maker since 1930 and the first Currywurst vendor in East Berlin, and also the creator of the skinless Currywurst sausage. Great sauce, great fries, a great place to start.

http://konnopke-imbiss.de/Home.html

Konnopke's in the 1960s

Curry Mitte

By far one of my favourites in Berlin. The meat in the sausage is locally sourced and they have an extra spicy, garlicky sauce you can order if you want a little more kick to your curry. They even offer a beef currywurst but I'd go for the original pork if I was you.

http://www.currymitte.de/

Curry 61

I always enjoy this Currywurst, a fairly sweet sauce which I think works very nicely with the curry powder. Be sure to ask to have your wurst 'scharf', meaning spicy, for that zing you need in a Currywurst. These guys even have a vegetarian sausage for those plant-eaters among us that don't want to miss out on this authentic Berlin experience.

http://www.curry61.de/

Curry Baude

On the advice of a friend of mine, a true Berliner, this is the best Currywurst in Berlin. All the key ingredients are perfectly balanced, great fries and they even have something called 'Zigeunersauce' which translates as 'gypsy sauce'. How can you go wrong.

http://www.curry-baude.de/

Guten Appetit!

A Berlin Christmas Gift Guide

It's that time of year again!

The fresh scent of pine, glüh wein and sugared almonds perfume the air. The sharp, icy days nip at your cheeks. And the Sun disappears for its annual slumber... hmm...but don't despair...

The Weihnachtsmann is coming!

Well... that's as long as you've been good this year?!

Now, I have always liked to think myself a good present planner. I try to tap into peoples wants and desires and have the memory akin to an elephant. So this year I thought it a good idea to put together a festive little list to help others during this time of hectic christmas shopping, last minutes woes and 'one day left to go' desperation.

I'm basically one of Santa's little elves.

Christmas is after all, all about sharing, so here are some of my favourite (of course mostly food related!) Berlin gifts to help you plan your 2017 Christmas gifting.

Gifts are appropriate for Berlin locals and visitors alike. Not sponsered.

All suggestions are small, local businesses, so by following these tips you can feel very virtuous in the fact that you're supporting small businesses. Therefore it's kind of a present to you too. 

1. Stollen from Lindner. Christmas isn't Christmas without this sugary, buttery German classic. Will be found in every German home at this time of year.

2. 'Winter Light' tea from Paper & Tea. This gorgeous store sells wonderful tea blends and stunning stationary. Either would be a perfect Chrimbo gift.

3. 'Rhubarb & Mint jam' from Zeit für brot. Perfect for making toast a little more exciting.

4. Pralines & Truffles from Sawade. Scrumptious chocolates handmade by Sawade, Berlin since 1880. A delicious little piece of Berlin history.

5. Classes at Ceramic Kingdom. Learn how to make your own bowls and mugs here! I had the most fun and am now the owner of some very 'unique' pieces shall we say! Variety of courses available. One off daytime events also possible so could be part of a special Berlin stay!

6. Spices from the Turkish Market. A little bundle of vibrant spices for the avid cook would make a lovely present and at the Maybachufer Turkish Market you can find spices in abundance and for great prices. Perhaps team these with an interesting wooden spoon/ chopping board that can also be found at this market.

7. Candles at Oblique. Who needs Jo Malone (now part of the hellhole that is LOreale) when you can support such a beautiful, local brand. Candles to die for. 

8. Gift Voucher for Goldhahn & Sampson. The foodie's dream pressie. Can be used for goodies including food items, kitchen utensils or cookbooks. Or even for one of the regular cookery classes that are available. Check website for details.

9. Crazy Bastard Sauce. A gift for those that like to eat alllll the scovilles, or at least say they can. This sauce will put them to the test. Details for buying online and Berlin stockists available on the website.

10. Bite Berlin food tour Gift Vouchers...ahem...Gift vouchers are always a great idea. Pretty effortless for you but all of the enjoyment for the receiver. BUY YOURS NOW :-)

11. Bonanza Coffee. Truly special coffee perfect for the Coffee fiends we know. Perhaps head to Mauer Park and find yourself a vintage coffee bean grinder and this would be some gift!

12. Our/Berlin vodka for the boozers amongst us. Perhaps find a Spreewalder Gurke in a can (local pickle) to accompany it and you have a pretty cute gift!

13. Aventyr Not so much a specific gift idea as a wonderful little spot where you can find truly unique pieces from all over the world. Homeware to underwear. For all ages & preferences.

14. Bite Berlin tote bag anyone? Number 13- lucky for some! I drew the Frenchie!!! <3 #shamelessselfpromo Contact me at info@biteberlin.com to purchase.

15. Berlin Museum Passes for one of the cultured souls you know. Either the annual one for someone that lives in Berlin or day passes for those just visiting. 

16. Christmas cookies at the Markthalle9 Christmas market or if you aren't here during the advent weekends, then head to the Kadewe food hall where you'll find food heaven on earth.

MERRY CHRISTMAS & A HAPPY NEW YEAR!

World Hummus Day

Hummus.

I could happily eat hummus everyday. That creamy chickpea nectar is not only good for your health, it's good for your soul.

Well, my soul at least.

You know that question that people ask, usually in magazine interviews, a question that I find sometimes keeping me up at night, racking my brains- 'what would your last supper be?' That death row meal. I think mine actually might be the glorious hummus, teamed with its great friends: fresh bread, pickles and fiery white onion that I inevitably regret munching later on.

Perhaps it was in fact hummus that Jesus and his disciples dined on during the principal Last Supper, its origins are found in that part of the world after all.

First recordings of hummus were discovered in cookbooks from the 13th Century in Cairo and it is a significant part of cuisine across the Levantine world. 'Hummus' means literally chickpeas in Arabic.

It is a dish that has been enjoyed by ancient rulers and despots, spanning a milennia, so you know it has to be good and deserves respect.

Upon my nerdy food googling this morning, I learnt that tomorrow (May 13th) is World Hummus Day!

So it is only right that we celebrate this wondrous and ancient dish and with this post I share with you all my favourite spots to enjoy it in Berlin tomorrow.

Akroum

Though not found on the menu above the counter, their hummus is delicious and fresh. Just ask for hummus 'gemahlen' (ground).

€

Azzam

Just opposite Akroum on Sonnenallee, you'll find the famous Azzam. Busy and sometimes a little hectic, their hummus always hits the spot. I like to have it with the spicy potatoes.

€

Sababa

Gorgeous Israeli dishes, their hummus with aubergine is always a triumph.

€€

,Zula

Another Israeli restaurant, the hummus with mushrooms is my go to, but they have a variety of toppings to join their super creamy hummus.

€€

Kanaan

A perfect place to go in the Summer with their funky outdoor space in Prenzlauer Berg. A Palestinian and Israeli run restaurant, which just touches the soul. As well as the hummus, the Sabich with a Yemenite pastry is fantastic.

€€

Brunch at Refugio

This cafe is part of a Sharehouse for refugees and homeless in Neukölln. The cafe is run by volunteers and offers a weekend brunch with Levantine fare. The hummus is beautiful. Citrusy fresh, it will brighten up your heavy head on a Sunday.

€